K
Lake Eyre
This is the follow up of Day 5 Drive to Muloorina
I arrive at Muloorina early in the afternoon. The weather looks promising to hold for a few more hours. My plan was to visit the lake tomorrow, but I decide to go now – somehow it feels right. This would be my good stroke of luck, because the rain will start during the night and considering the deep mud, I encountered next day driving back on the main road, I doubt the 42km from Muloorina to the lake would’ve been possible.
It is again easy driving on a sandy track. I can see where the big mud was a few weeks ago – deep, deep sections dug by tyres, some of them still soaking in pools of water. The track simply bypasses them. I’ve read about a dune just before reaching the lake, but today there is nothing hard (or soft for that matter) along the 42km to Lake Eyre. I pass a few cars and find a few more parked at the visitor’s car park. Quite a lot of people are visiting today…
From the beach dune you can see vast dry space and beyond it, far, far away on the horizon, something that looks like water. I start to walk, intending to reach it. A few dark specks appear in the blitz just below the horizon. They move towards me and soon gain the shape of a mum and dad with three kids. They couldn’t get to the water, they tell me. The father is disappointed: “It’s a mirage” he suggests. One of his little girls warns me to be careful not to be swallowed by the mud. I promise to be careful and continue to walk on the increasingly soft lake bed. If it’s getting softer, I think, the water should be getting closer, right… Wrong! The water will never come close.
Just before giving up, the mud firms into a salty crust and the walking become much easier, like walking on ice without the slippery bit. Soon everything becomes white. To speed things up, I start running, but the illusive “water” starts moving away with the same speed. An hour later this situation doesn’t change, only the high beach dune behind me becomes a thin line and would soon disappear.
I enjoy all of this light and white space, the walking on the frozen salt. I could walk like this forever, but some instinct tells me that if I lose the thin line of the beach and the sun suddenly disappears, I would be lost. I don’t want to spend the night on the lake. What if it starts to rain?
I turn back and a couple of hours later get to the car for the uneventful drive back to Muloorina camping ground. Muloorina camping ground is wonderful. There are quite a few cars there and everyone looks serene. There is something in this place, I don’t know – the air, the waterhole, the sunset maybe…
Friends, I am going to finish my story now – I have another two days for my long 2000km drive back to Sydney. I will spend the night at Broken Hill again and will drive through some thick fog and mud the next day. Yes, on the way back from Marree, I will encounter large unavoidable pools of mud, enjoying the floating sensation that comes with it and the delicious realization that the Landie is capable to go through, never skipping a beat. The whole car will be covered with mud, which I’ll bring back to Sydney, and will take me half a day to hose off. But for me this is not so important. I had a wonderful trip. I saw the amazing Flinders and walked on Lake Eyre! Not many people in the World can praise themselves with the same.
The end
Thank you for taking the trouble to share your trip with us all,
That is a trip that you will remember all your life.
Now I just have to follow in your tyre tracks. Thank you.
Regards, Nick Viner.
Hi Nick, may the good fortune be always with you. 🙂
Thank you.